Faucets that drip in Midlothian often indicate worn washers, corroded valve seats, faulty cartridges, loose parts, or high water pressure; you can diagnose basic issues and replace washers or tighten handles yourself, but for corroded seats, pressure problems, or incorrect installation you should hire a licensed plumber to ensure your repairs are done correctly and stop leaks for good.
Key Takeaways:
- Drips usually come from worn washers, corroded valve seats, broken cartridges, loose parts or diverters — some are simple DIY fixes like replacing a washer or tightening a handle.
- High water pressure or incorrect installation often require professional work (pressure-reducing valve, reseating/replacing parts) to stop recurring leaks.
- Even slow drips waste water and raise bills — call an experienced Midlothian plumber for lasting repairs when parts are corroded, damaged, or the job is beyond basic DIY.
Common Causes of Dripping Faucets
Many drips trace to a handful of issues: worn washers, loose parts, corroded valve seats, broken cartridges, and high water pressure. A steady drip can waste about 3,000 gallons per year, so you want to diagnose the exact cause quickly. You’ll often spot the problem by how the faucet behaves—wobbly handles point to loose hardware, while a constant drip from a closed compression faucet usually means the washer has failed.
Worn-Out Washer
Compression faucets rely on a small rubber or neoprene washer to seal against the valve seat; after 3–10 years (sooner with hard water) that washer flattens or cracks and allows leakage. You can replace the washer yourself in 10–20 minutes with basic tools; parts cost $1–5. Signs include dripping only when the faucet is turned off and a slight wobble in the handle’s feel as the washer degrades.
Loose Parts
Loose set screws, bonnet nuts, retaining clips, or mounting hardware let components shift and prevent seals from seating, producing intermittent drips and handle play. You’ll notice a wobbly handle, noise when you open the tap, or leaks that start after you bump the fixture; tightening or replacing the specific fastener often stops the leak quickly.
Inspect by shutting off the water, removing the handle, and checking for worn O-rings, a loose retaining clip on cartridges, or a backed-off bonnet nut on compression stems; replace cracked O-rings and snug screws to manufacturer torque specs if available. Corrosion can hide under hardware—if metal parts are pitted or sealing surfaces are scored, you’ll need replacement components or a cartridge swap, which typically takes 20–45 minutes for a DIYer with the right parts.
Issues Related to Faucet Mechanisms
Corroded Valve Seat
Hard water deposits and galvanic corrosion can pit the valve seat where the spout meets the faucet body, letting water bypass seals and drip. You’ll most often see this in faucets older than 10–15 years or systems with high mineral content; cleaning with a seat dresser or replacing the seat typically remedies the leak. Expect parts and labor around $50–$150 if a plumber must reface or replace the seat.
Broken Cartridge
Single-handle faucets rely on a cartridge to control temperature and flow; a cracked or worn cartridge causes persistent dripping, stiff or erratic handle movement, and temperature swings. Cartridges commonly last 5–10 years depending on water quality. Replacement cartridges cost roughly $15–$60—match the brand/model (Moen, Delta, Kohler) or bring the old cartridge to a parts supplier for an exact fit.
Shut off the local shutoff valves and depressurize the line before removing the handle, bonnet, and retaining clip to extract the cartridge; keep parts organized. Check O-rings and seals for scoring and clean mineral deposits with white vinegar. Lubricate new O-rings with silicone plumber’s grease and seat the cartridge squarely—DIY swaps take about 20–45 minutes, but call a plumber if the valve body or seat shows damage or parts don’t match.
Installation and Maintenance Problems
Loose Handle
A loose handle often means a stripped or missing set screw, worn spline, or loose bonnet nut under the cap; you can usually stop the wobble by removing the decorative cap, tightening the 1/8″ hex or Phillips set screw, and checking spline engagement. Persistent play suggests a worn cartridge or splines that need replacement. One drip per second can waste about 3,000 gallons a year, so tighten or replace the handle hardware promptly to avoid higher bills and further wear.
Incorrect Installation
Improper seating, cross‑threaded mounting nuts, or missing gaskets during a recent install commonly cause steady leaks at the base or under the sink; you may see water pooling on the deck or wet cabinet floors. A faucet that isn’t plumbed straight can stress seals and supply lines, so re-seating the faucet and checking connections often stops the drip.
To diagnose, shut off water, loosen the mounting nut with a basin wrench, and lift the faucet to inspect the rubber gasket and deck flange for gaps or debris. Check supply line fittings for cross-threading and replace crushed gaskets or old O‑rings—use the manufacturer’s replacement kit when available. After reinstallation, run a 15-minute test at normal pressure and watch for slow seepage; if you find persistent leaks at the valve body or through the spout, the cartridge or valve seat may have been damaged during install and should be replaced or inspected by a licensed plumber.
External Factors Affecting Faucets
Your faucets face pressures beyond normal wear:
- High water pressure (over 60–80 psi)
- Hard water mineral buildup (calcium, magnesium)
- Seasonal freezing and thermal expansion
- Municipal line flushing and water hammer
These elements speed seal and cartridge breakdown, often cutting part life from 5–10 years to 1–3. After prolonged exposure to high pressure or minerals, you’ll see faster leaks and more frequent repairs.
High Water Pressure
Your home’s mains should sit around 40–60 psi; sustained pressure above 80 psi increases stress on washers, O-rings, and cartridges, causing drips. You can test pressure with a $15 gauge at an outdoor hose bib; if readings exceed 60–70 psi, have a plumber fit a pressure-reducing valve (PRV) to bring it down to 50–60 psi. A PRV installation typically costs $200–400 in Midlothian and stops many pressure-related leaks.
Faulty Diverter
A worn or clogged diverter can let water bypass the spout or sprayer and drip continuously. You’ll notice slow leaks when the valve doesn’t fully seal—common on pull-out kitchen faucets and tub/shower diverters after 3–7 years of use. Replacing the diverter cartridge or cleaning mineral deposits often restores proper flow and stops drips.
Hard water deposits commonly lock diverter plungers, so you can soak removed diverters in white vinegar for 30–60 minutes to dissolve scale, or replace OEM cartridges for $15–60. On pull-out faucets inspect the spray hose for kinks and check the spout O-ring, since failure there mimics a bad diverter; if disassembly is awkward, a plumber can swap the component in 30–60 minutes.
DIY Solutions for Faucet Repairs
Hands-on fixes
Shut off your water supply, remove the handle, and inspect the washer, O‑ring or cartridge—most compression-faucet drips are solved by swapping a $2–5 washer in 10–20 minutes. For single‑handle units, replacing a cartridge ($20–60) typically takes 20–45 minutes; use a seat‑dressing tool or replace the valve seat if pitted. Tightening loose nuts with an adjustable wrench often stops handle leaks. Keep a basic parts kit and a basin wrench on hand so you can tackle common Midlothian repairs quickly.
When to Call a Plumber
Call a pro if…
When a drip continues after you replace the washer or tighten the handle, contact a licensed plumber—DIY fixes should stop obvious leaks within an hour. A steady drip of one drop per second wastes over 3,000 gallons a year, and persistent leaking caused by corroded valve seats, broken cartridges, or faulty diverters needs professional inspection and parts. Also call immediately if you cannot isolate your shutoff valve, see water pooling, or your home pressure exceeds 80 psi; those situations risk bigger damage.
To wrap up
Dripping faucets aren’t just annoying—they waste water, raise bills, and often point to deeper plumbing problems. Tackling worn washers or loose handles may be a quick DIY job, but when leaks come from corrosion, pressure issues, or faulty cartridges, professional help ensures the repair lasts.
At Midlothian Mechanical, we know how frustrating recurring leaks can be. Our team plumbing contractor combines decades of plumbing experience with the right tools to solve faucet problems at the source—whether that means reseating valves, installing new cartridges, or adjusting water pressure. We focus on lasting repairs, not temporary fixes, so your home runs smoothly and efficiently.
Stop wasting water and money—schedule service today or call (833) 611-4859 and let our Midlothian plumbing team restore your faucets to drip-free performance.